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Bata's Roger Vivier exhibit peers into mind of master shoe designer
The question of form over function inspires lively dialogue, particularly in the shoe department,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], where comfort may come a distant second to creativity,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and that we splurge on to-die-for footwear knowing it'll kill our feet.
But that's fashion for you. It is a fantasy world in which the quest for beauty keeps us on our toes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], even if the journey results in blisters.
"To wear dreams on one's feet is to start to provide a reality to one's dreams," said Roger Vivier, who died in 1998 but remains one of the most celebrated, influential shoe designers of history century. That quote is displayed at the entrance of "Process to Perfection," the Bata Shoe Museum's glorious Vivier exhibit that opened May 9. It's a treasure chest of designer inspiration.
Bruno Frisoni now heads the posh house of Vivier. The Paris-based Frisoni,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who began designing shoes in 1999,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], is at Toronto for that exhibit launch along with a trunk show at Holt Renfrew, where Vivier shoes and bags are sold.
I toured the Vivier exhibit with Frisoni,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who was amazed to determine Vivier's original drawings.
"That's unusual. And every one of them are exquisite in terms of proportion and the sculptural way he considered his designs," said Frisoni.
The Vivier vision is "very couture,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," he says. "It's like when you see an attractive dress by Yves St. Laurent,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and the draping is like liquid,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], even though the understructure is very strong,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," he explains. "It's exactly the same feeling if you notice these Vivier shoes. As structured because they are,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], there's an effortless turn to them."
Bata curator Elizabeth Semmelhack said the concept for that show began once the museum acquired 63 original Vivier drawings. Semmelhack realized most of the drawings were of shoes in New York's Metropolitan Museum. "I thought it would be great to re-unite the drawings with the shoes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], especially at a time when the high heel is becoming so strong,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," Semmelhack said. "I thought,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], 'Why not look back at among the originators?'"
Vivier's shoes have been much loved by songstresses,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], royals and couturiers alike.
Vivier was born in Paris and studied sculpture at L'École des Beaux-Arts in the early 1920s. He was brought to shoemaking by a family friend who owned a shoe factory. With hemlines rising,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], shoes were the subject unprecedented focus, by the 1930s,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Vivier was well on his method to mastering his craft,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], doing private commissions for songstress Josephine Baker.
In 1937, Vivier opened his own shop, catering to such sophisticated clientele because the Queen Mother,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who wore Vivier shoes towards the coronation of her husband King George VI that same year. (Vivier also designed Queen Elizabeth's shoes for her 1953 coronation.)
And, inspired by the 16th century Venetian chopine,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Vivier come up with first modern,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], high platform sandal,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which Elsa Schiaparelli embraced and contained in her 1937 spring collection. Platforms would become the definitive fashion shoe from the 1940s.
The supply of leather for civilian shoes was limited throughout the war years,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], so Vivier,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], then residing in New York,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], turned his talents to millinery, learning skills that will later inform his shoe designs.
A couple of years after his go back to Paris in 1949,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Vivier met Christian Dior, and began designing shoes for your master's revolutionary creations.
The rest is high-fashion history.
Bata's exhibit is a celebration of attitude in footwear,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], from ornate silk evening shoes that matched Dior's sumptuous gowns-the footwear nodded to French aristocracy,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], yet remained modern in architecture and embellishment-to plastic, python-print boots designed for legendary Vogue editor Diana Vreeland in the 1960s.
What's surprising is when ultimately contemporary the designs look today. "Because they were so innovative,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," notes Frisoni. "I mean,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he's one of the shoe designers that people still remember and reference today,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," he admits that.
Semmelhack credits Vivier's lasting attract his balanced elegance.
"The under-architecture of his shoes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," she says,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], "even the overly ornate ones,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], is really perfectly balanced,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], this type of statement in modernity. I believe that helped give his designs a kind of tension that is constantly on the make sure they are relevant today."
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