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Wrapped in comfort
Paris menswear displays a dash of modern elegance in touch with its feminine side. By DOMINIQUE SCHROEDER
and KATE MILLAR French chic: Layers of clothing that fit snugly from Jean Paul Gaultier.
AFTER four glittering days of women's haute couture creations,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the Paris catwalks switched to more down-to-earth and generally sombre styles for men next winter. Black and shades of grey predictably perhaps made their presence felt although Japan's Yohji Yamamoto shook things up with splashes of sensational poppy-red. He used it for tailcoats which in solid red certainly cut a dash amid a wardrobe of long dark coats, narrow trousers cropped above ankle boots and big sweaters with striking cartoon-like motifs. Head turner: Dutch fashion designer Lucas Ossendrijver presents a wardrobe with a youthful spirit for Lanvin.
While John Galliano used lots of sludgy and slate greys, he also introduced a wide variety of textures for his energetic collection, which seemed charged with a wild warrior spirit, not least because of the headgear. Descending a metal staircase into the spotlight of a vast Parisian warehouse, models made a dramatic entrance in masks or helmets that at times resembled something between antlers and Darth Vader. They almost overshadowed the clothes - a mix of heavy-duty leather coats and jackets,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], studded trousers, T-shirts, hooded tops and knee-length pants as well as pieces with embroidery on the sleeve or smarter jackets and suits. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton's city-dwellers also maintained an all-powerful aura of funky style, for a show set against the backdrop of an underground station illuminated by harsh neon lights. But gentle shades of colours, such as for trousers in nuances of grey, and colourful lace-up shoes softened the mood while the house kept fans on side with an array of luxurious materials. Emerald green, plum and grape also crept in to the palette for the contemporary,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], smart-casual look,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which was often rounded off with a large bag, gloves and sunglasses. At Givenchy, young go-getters will surely find the answer to their style prayers with clothes that, although strong on tailoring, were hip, comfy and full of not overly ostentatious hints of luxury. Well-cut coats and jackets had lapels or collars in marmot and astrakhan, while sporty patent black or just plain white lace-up sneakers lightened things up, and chunky knit cardigans played a part in the layered look. There was a dash of modern elegance in touch with its feminine side, showing the male-female crossover in fashion is alive and well. While androgyny comes and goes from the world's catwalks and shopfronts,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Belgian designers Dries van Noten and Kris van Assche both created looks that were overtly strong and masculine, while dipping into the woman's wardrobe. The result: a softening around the edges. Splash of colour: Italian fashion designer Stefano Pilati combines comfort and elegance for Yves Saint Laurent.
With a few nods to the 1980s, van Noten rounded off his dynamic autumn-winter 2007-08 wardrobe of two-tone fabrics, bomber jackets and long sheer sweaters by loosely tying silk print scarves around models' shoulders. "I think that's really part of elegance, I think 'why not'. You can easily mix masculine and feminine elements in a collection, like extremely shiny shoes," the designer, known for his dark colour palette. Yellow accents and upturned collars added further definition to the collection, which the Belgian described as "a very contemporary look". Belgian van Assche, a former assistant to Dior designer Hedi Slimane,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], waxed lyrical about 'a tough guy with a tender heart' and offered plenty of cosy puffer jackets, waistcoats or coats in an array of colours, cargo or drawstring pants and ankle boots. Strong and masculine: Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten dips into the woman's wardrobe for his designs.
But with romantic Elvis Presley classics crooning in the background, he wove in the more sensitive touch of embroidery that sparingly twinkled on a white shirt, tiny holster-like waistcoats, a lime green tie, and even beads or a tiara. And the ultimate in his and hers dressing - female models wore versions of the boy's clothes, or their own take on mannish staples like a satiny shirt-dress or low-sitting trousers. Fellow Belgian Raf Simons gave a rigorous lesson in the cut and construction of clothes with coats featuring lined insets up the back which were sometimes partly zipped,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and jackets and pants sculpted to precision. He also mixed textures and used highly-worked materials that had the allure of being achieved through sophisticated techniques, while an inky blue was an appealing alternative to black. Martin Margiela,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a fourth Belgian designer but who never appears publicly, had slimmed the silhouette for next winter with neat straight-cut trousers for both casual and smart wear. Rivets and studs were just one of the many facets to the hip collection, varied in colours and fabrics, which was littered with witty touches such as a wooden tie or fur bow tie. Oriental cheek: Japanese Yohji Yamamoto comes up with big sweaters that feature striking cartoon-like motifs.
A tuxedo with a finely-finished black scarf and cummerbund made to look like a waistcoat over slim-fit pants summed up the house's deft handling of luxury - clearly there, but never in your face. Leading fashion houses Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin offered men a lesson in juggling comfort and elegance, while Paul Smith made geek chic the coolest look around for next autumn. Stefano Pilati is mindful to keep the cold chill off fans of his timeless clothes for YSL, wrapping them up with hoods regardless of what else they are wearing - a sloping-shouldered fire-engine red coat with flannel trousers, for example. Warrior spirit: John Galliano uses a variety of textures in his collection.
He used fur,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], though sparingly,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], at the collar or wrist,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], while with their long and supple grey woollen cardigans, cosy duffle coats, straight-cut coats or parkas, the YSL look is only complete with a silk scarf. Headgear was also a clue to the spirit of Lanvin's wardrobe. Topped off by hats that were a cross between a cap and a riding hat, the Lanvin man can look forward to a chic winter wardrobe with a youthful spirit whose roots are sporty and whose philosophy is comfort. So,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], into the natural tones Dutch designer Lucas Ossendrijver tossed fresh strong colours like those of basketball boots in violet or red, threw in deliberately crumpled-effect fabrics and kept the overall feel soft and rounded. At Paul Smith, it was as though the veteran British designer had taken the classics from the wardrobe of an English country house - corduroy,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], soft checks, turned-up trousers and pinstripes (for those occasional meetings in the city) - and given them to a modernist. In their updated versions, they contributed to a definite city 'street' feel. Smith, for instance,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], paired a chunky knit polo neck sweater under a close-fit smart blazer, or introduced thick embroidery to the back and pocket or,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], still, tone-on-tone pattern to a velvety jacket. But his strongest look was reserved for trousers, which were cropped short while retaining their turn-ups that stopped even above the laced-up brogue ankle boots, or to show off rosy or golden-yellow socks. - AFP相关的主题文章：

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