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Streets of Samba,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
Aparna Shekar Roy
Where on the planet are you able to pretend to be somebody else to have an entire week and get away by using it? Where are you able to have beer and barbecue for breakfast and never a single person would consider it strange? Where can you climb up political statues and historic monuments and sing towards the top of your voice,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], also it would be considered a celebration, not disrespect? Where can you dance non-stop to reside music and not pay a penny? Where can women pee standing up? This is not an illusion land. Such a place really exists. It called Rio de Janeiro. Having returned from the seven-month trip across Latin America, 3 weeks of which were spent at Carnaval the grandest party on the planet, I am still reeling with the craziness from it all.
Invited by Ronaldo and Renata, my buddies with an online travel community, I reached Rio a week in front of the Carnaval and was not a little surprised to determine the party had already begun. In the end,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the Brazilians seem born using the penchant to party. However, my understanding of the Carnaval was fairly warped, restricted to viewing one-minute news clippings about semi-naked Samba dancers the predominant image linked to the event. The truth is, the Carnaval is definitely an orgy of multiple cultural elements that you could experience only by stepping into the shoes of a local.
Luckily, my induction began immediately on arrival, by having an summary of both popular aspects of the Rio Carnaval the oh-so-touristy massive parade of the Escolas De Samba, the Samba schools that compete in the Sambodromo (parade area); and the locally loved Blocos de Rua, street parties that happen in each and every nook and corner of the city. As being a first-timer,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I did not want to forget about either experience. The least expensive available ticket for that Sambodromo was quickly bought and also the rest of my shoestring budget and time were centered on the street parties.
Five-step abandon
To experience the road parties, a simple five-step process is advised. Enjoy some Fantasia,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], costumes the more ridiculous the better; learn how to Samba, sing and dance integral to Brazilian culture; keep in mind that Cerveja is Agua, beer is water; tuck away your camera and cash inside a safety pouch under your pants; and finally, ignore sleep before stepping out for that week.
I loved the way Brazilians simplified everything.
Shopping was the initial step and the destination was Saara market, the Crawford market of Rio which sold Fantasia ranging from exotic samba costumes to cheap mix-and-match options. The streets were dazzling with displays of other nutritional foods feather and sequins.
Assessing all of the paraphernalia,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I had been torn between dressing as a devil, a beer can, an attractive nurse or perhaps a prostitute. My buddies did mention that if I could conjure up a little bit of everything in my costume, I'd be any man dream become a reality. That scared me and that i just chose to play the devil.
Three-step Samba
Sporting my red ensemble on the first day,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I headed by helping cover their Renata and her friends to Carmelitas Bloco in the Bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. This historical Bloco paraded in costumes of nuns, portraying the legend of a reclusive nun who couldn resist the parade and escaped from the convent, returning only on the last day of the Carnaval. Nothing could have prepared me for that colourful chaos. From mummies to clowns, firefighters to cross-dressers, the streets were full of Cariocas in their creative best. Singing Marcinhas, the songs from the Carnaval, the Cariocas danced their way for the band,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which marched along a set route. The sun's rays didn't spare us on that day, however the residents of Santa Teresa stood within their balconies with water hoses, generously spraying cool water on the dancing crowds. Drenched with sweat, water and the occasional spray of beer, I mastered the three-step Samba movement. The energy was unbelievable,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which was just the start!
Bloco-busters,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]!
That week saw us visiting Blocos in a variety of neighbourhoods, each totally different from the other. Apart from the evident entertainment value, Blocos celebrated a theme, mocked an issue or supported a social cause. Bloco Facinha, within the posh area of Ipanema,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], attracted the young and restless using their theme Ni Mim Que Eu Sou Facinha (Hit on me, I easy). Much less far away was another Bloco giving away free condoms and promoting safe sex. Bloco Mulheres Do Chico, a group dedicated to playing the background music from the famous Brazilian artist Chico Buarque, gave us a share of traditional Samba while Bloco Empolga Às 9, meaning Excitement at 9, developed by several youngsters at Post 9 the beach, played Funk and Rock infused with Samba.
We braved large-scale Blocos like Cordão do Bola Preta,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who with their cult status,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], managed to get more than 2 lakh people. Spending days and nights within the streets,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], dancing and drinking,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we went home simply to change our costumes and sneaked into bars to use the restrooms. After two days, we ditched even that idea when we found a lady offering to women this excellent handmade funnel-shaped product called Feliz (Happy Pee), encouraging us to pee in street corners. Liberating as it was, I felt just a little guilty. Then I reminded myself that Carnaval was not at all a time to think about civic sense.
Sleep-deprived but faced with energy, I tore myself away from the Blocos during the final times of the Carnaval, to witness the incredible parade set up through the Samba schools. Now, back home in the confines of my small apartment in Mumbai, I secretly dance towards the beats of Rio Samba every once in a while. I kept intact my devil hat and my glitter-stained dress from that week. It sure feels like a dream I don't want to wake up from.
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