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An adventure on a Vespa
The low decks were dark and dingy. The cabins were cramped and worn. And also the hallways echoed with the muffled sounds of men fighting, babies crying,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], dogs barking and couples cuddling.
I half likely to obtain a knock on my small cabin door from someone called Jimmy "TwoFingers'' Ragatoni, requesting a pizzo a little bribe to ensure nothing happened to me on the crossing.
Most of the Italian passengers were out on the deck feverishly thumbing text messages and making frantic calls on their mobile phones. In the beginning I feared that I'd missed an announcement to abandon ship.
The desperate way the Italians were trying to contact family members suggested that some sort of disaster had befallen us a fireplace in the engine room or perhaps a rogue Mediterranean iceberg, perhaps.
It was worse than that,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. The mobile phone signals were fading also it could be another 10 hours prior to the ship could be in range of the phone towers again,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych].
The noise made by my neighbours resulted in I was up on deck when we approached Palermo at dawn the following day.
The environment was incredibly still and also the sea looked like it had been buffed to some stunning platinum sheen.
Monte Pellegrino stood regally crowned by a wisp of morning mist and also the high mountain range that ran across the back of the city glowed early in the day sun.
The harbour was dotted with blue wooden rowboats and fishermen lazily dangling lines over the edge. The only hint from the city's dramatic history (Palermo is reputedly probably the most invaded city in Europe) was the dull thud of cannon fire from the fort to the west from the harbour.
I was travelling around Italy on a bright Vespa exactly the same shade of orange as Donatella Versace. I'd already traversed Sardinia,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and also the adventure of Sicily and also the Amalfi Coast lay ahead.
I had spent most of my sleepless night journeying over the Tyrrhenian Sea studying a map of Palermo during my guide book to figure out the best way to reach my hotel.
The map hadn't indicated that most of the streets in Palermo were one of the ways. When it comes to the route I had mapped out, heading in the wrong direction.
Nor did it indicate that on Saturdays all the lanes around the hotel were closed and filled with stalls of the weekly Balero market.
After i finally got within a block of my hotel, my way was blocked by countless stalls,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], tightly packed together under a sea of tatty canvas umbrellas, selling plastic colanders, big pants and also the occasional slab of freshly caught tuna.
There is a little pathway with the markets but it am narrow that people had to shuffle sideways to obtain through.
Occasionally, the produce from a particular stall overflowed onto that pathway the ones were instructed to jump over a pile of artichokes or melons. I was only a couple of hundred metres from the hotel, and so i chose to chain my Vespa Marcello to some pole, lug my bag all of those other way and retrieve the scooter at the end of the day when the market had closed.
From the corner of my eye I noticed a guy on a scooter ride in to the stalls and negotiate his way through the scrum of individuals. I expected him to become abused, possibly even set upon, but people stepped aside and allow him to through.
Owners of the stalls that overflowed onto the path even shifted their produce momentarily so he could pass. I figured the rider would have been a one-off a market official, perhaps,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], collecting stall fees.
But over the next couple of minutes at least half a dozen scooter riders plunged right into a chaotic scrum of market stalls,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. So I chose to give it a try myself.
I wasn't as skilful because the locals however i made good progress. I clipped a watermelon as I passed a vegetable and fruit stall,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but luckily the dog owner was quick enough to trap it before it fell.
And also at one point I had to wait while a guy unloaded ice from the back of a scooter to some stall selling tuna. (A coughing chorus of protest saw me switch off the engine until he was finished.) But soon I had been winding my way past plastic colanders and cheap plastic radios just like a local.
I found your accommodation on a serene corner only the other part of the market,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. The adrenalin was still being pumping so I tossed my bags during my room and hit the streets of Palermo.
I rode past men selling shoes off blankets on the bonnets of their cars,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], food stalls set up in the ruins of crumbling buildings, and women selling embroidered items in the windows of the homes, passing neatly folded tablecloths, through the black and pink flags from the local football team which hung from lines strung between your buildings about them.
I immediately took a shine to Palermo. It had an energy, a brio, that suggested the citizens from the city were living for now rather than get yourself ready for some illustrious future that may or may not come.
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