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cheapbag214s
Posted: Mon 17:08, 19 Aug 2013
Post subject: Bata's Roger Vivier exhibit peers into mind of mas
Bata's Roger Vivier exhibit peers into mind of master shoe designer
The question of form over function inspires lively dialogue, particularly in the shoe department,
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, where comfort may come a distant second to creativity,
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, and that we splurge on to-die-for footwear knowing it'll kill our feet.
But that's fashion for you. It is a fantasy world in which the quest for beauty keeps us on our toes,
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, even if the journey results in blisters.
"To wear dreams on one's feet is to start to provide a reality to one's dreams," said Roger Vivier, who died in 1998 but remains one of the most celebrated, influential shoe designers of history century. That quote is displayed at the entrance of "Process to Perfection," the Bata Shoe Museum's glorious Vivier exhibit that opened May 9. It's a treasure chest of designer inspiration.
Bruno Frisoni now heads the posh house of Vivier. The Paris-based Frisoni,
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, who began designing shoes in 1999,
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, is at Toronto for that exhibit launch along with a trunk show at Holt Renfrew, where Vivier shoes and bags are sold.
I toured the Vivier exhibit with Frisoni,
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, who was amazed to determine Vivier's original drawings.
"That's unusual. And every one of them are exquisite in terms of proportion and the sculptural way he considered his designs," said Frisoni.
The Vivier vision is "very couture,
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," he says. "It's like when you see an attractive dress by Yves St. Laurent,
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, and the draping is like liquid,
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, even though the understructure is very strong,
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," he explains. "It's exactly the same feeling if you notice these Vivier shoes. As structured because they are,
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, there's an effortless turn to them."
Bata curator Elizabeth Semmelhack said the concept for that show began once the museum acquired 63 original Vivier drawings. Semmelhack realized most of the drawings were of shoes in New York's Metropolitan Museum. "I thought it would be great to re-unite the drawings with the shoes,
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, especially at a time when the high heel is becoming so strong,
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," Semmelhack said. "I thought,
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, 'Why not look back at among the originators?'"
Vivier's shoes have been much loved by songstresses,
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, royals and couturiers alike.
Vivier was born in Paris and studied sculpture at L'École des Beaux-Arts in the early 1920s. He was brought to shoemaking by a family friend who owned a shoe factory. With hemlines rising,
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, shoes were the subject unprecedented focus, by the 1930s,
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, Vivier was well on his method to mastering his craft,
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, doing private commissions for songstress Josephine Baker.
In 1937, Vivier opened his own shop, catering to such sophisticated clientele because the Queen Mother,
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, who wore Vivier shoes towards the coronation of her husband King George VI that same year. (Vivier also designed Queen Elizabeth's shoes for her 1953 coronation.)
And, inspired by the 16th century Venetian chopine,
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, Vivier come up with first modern,
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, high platform sandal,
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, which Elsa Schiaparelli embraced and contained in her 1937 spring collection. Platforms would become the definitive fashion shoe from the 1940s.
The supply of leather for civilian shoes was limited throughout the war years,
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, so Vivier,
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, then residing in New York,
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, turned his talents to millinery, learning skills that will later inform his shoe designs.
A couple of years after his go back to Paris in 1949,
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, Vivier met Christian Dior, and began designing shoes for your master's revolutionary creations.
The rest is high-fashion history.
Bata's exhibit is a celebration of attitude in footwear,
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, from ornate silk evening shoes that matched Dior's sumptuous gowns-the footwear nodded to French aristocracy,
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, yet remained modern in architecture and embellishment-to plastic, python-print boots designed for legendary Vogue editor Diana Vreeland in the 1960s.
What's surprising is when ultimately contemporary the designs look today. "Because they were so innovative,
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," notes Frisoni. "I mean,
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, he's one of the shoe designers that people still remember and reference today,
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," he admits that.
Semmelhack credits Vivier's lasting attract his balanced elegance.
"The under-architecture of his shoes,
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," she says,
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, "even the overly ornate ones,
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, is really perfectly balanced,
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, this type of statement in modernity. I believe that helped give his designs a kind of tension that is constantly on the make sure they are relevant today."
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