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| Joined: 27 Jun 2013 |
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Fava fava fava
There are certain things -- odd kitchen implements or ingredients -- that I tend to pick up by a kind of culinary reflex,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], bring home and then don't use. This is because I don't know what to do with them,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], or I haven't found the right recipe -- or the other ingredients for the recipe I do have. Copper canelé tins,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], smoked black cardamom pods,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], mulberry molasses,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a blissful Mason jar of prunes that have been soaking in Armagnac for upward of two years. (That's going to be fun.) And dried fava beans. Lots of dried fava beans.
I have a bag of them that I picked up at a farmers market here last year,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], another that I brought back from a market in Seattle,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and yet another bag that I found at a tiny corner grocery store in Paris' 4th arrondissement, two doors up from Eric Kayser's bakery in the Latin Quarter. I brought them back,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but hadn't found any recipe that called for them. But then, a few weeks ago, Martha Rose Shulman's new cookbook,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], "Mediterranean Harvest,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," appeared on my desk. It's a terrific book, containing over 500 recipes from Southern Europe,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], North Africa,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the Middle East. So far I've started curing olives using her method,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and have already put up about 10 pounds of preserved lemons. (She's got a great Sauces and Condiments section.) And then, on Page 309, I found a recipe that called for dried favas.
Shulman's recipe is simple: The favas are just simmered in salted water until mushy,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], then allowed to rest before you add a generous pour of olive oil. Shulman says the warm purée, served with greens cooked with garlic (you can stir them into the purée), is a signature dish of Puglia. If I'd known that (and how easy it all was),[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I'd have picked up even more bags of dried favas than I did.
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